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Concrete Repair- 8. Rated 2. 8 out of 5 by 1. Rated 5. 0 out of 5. Zach Worked well for me. I wouldn't let the low rating scare you. Quikrete has either changed the formula or the people giving low stars really didn't know what they were doing. I used this to repair some surface cracks on my front concrete stoop. As the directions recommend i first applied their bonding adhesive to help the new concrete bond to the old. People say its hard to work with but if you puncture a large enough hole in the tube it came out just fine. For the smaller fine cracks i used a putty knife to help spread the product evenly over the cracks. After the product was dried i used Quikrete Fast. Set Repair Mortar to give a nice even fresh coat. Clean the surface, remove loose concrete etc etc. I had the same problem at first. I just pushed a screw driver down the nozzle to puncture a hole. How to Caulk in Five Easy Steps. Insert cartridge into caulking gun. Then it came out easy. It was cheaper than the other products and I saw why. It was very difficult to work with and too clumpy. I took the other tubes back and got a more expensive product that covered more area (same size container) and was so much easier to work with. The HD employee recommended it because it was cheap but it was not worth the hassle. One of the worse products I have ever used. I had to apply a lot of force to get any of the product out of the tube, into the plastic tip. The product is way too stiff, and just jammed up. I cut off most of the plastic tip, to the widest part, and punctured the seal multiple times. The stuff was almost impossible to squeeze from the caulking gun. I got a sticky mess smeared on either side of the crack, and had to use a wire coat hanger to get any of it into the crack. Concrete Patch & Repair. Concrete and patch repair is a common task for most home owners. Whether it is a driveway, walk or garage floor, the many concrete. Caulking gun; Concrete crack. Leave the repair alone for a couple of hours and then spray it lightly with water and cover the patch. And the product was difficult to remove from the metal seal piercing rod on the caulking gun. And the product was difficult to remove from the concrete on either side of the crack. But apart from that.. The product was just too stiff to be squeezed from the caulk gun. I just gave up and tossed the tube into the trash, and spent more time cleaning the mess up. I should have saved myself unnecessary frustration, and just tossed it into the trash from the get go. It is not really suitable for small cracks because it has small aggregate in the mix. This is also why the spout gets clogged at times. You can avoid the clogging by cutting the nozzle hole down far enough to create a large opening. This is not a problem if you are shooting it into larger cracks. I used it for fairly large expansion joint cracks in my driveway. As far as it being watery, it does start out that way at times, but it is only lasts for a moment. This stuff dries pretty hard (like concrete) but is supposed to be flexible so it won't crack. The people that don't like this are simply not using it correctly. What I got out initially was water. The actual caulking came out very firm. I had to cut the tip way back to get any product out of the tube. Would not penetrate into the cracks and would not smooth out once it was installed. DIY experts show how to repair concrete steps by patching and resurfacing them.I have used other quikcrete product and loved them but this one is not worth my time and now i have to scrape it all off and clean it, caulk it with another product then wait another day to paint.. Very frustrating. January 1. 9, 2. 01. Rated 5. 0 out of 5. 170125 BlackTop Patch - 25 kg. Looking for premium caulks, sealants, adhesives, or general patch and repair items? 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It requires a large nozzle opening, and it dries quickly and is tacky and sticks to my disposable gloves. I want it tacky and to adhere, because I use it frequently in vertical applications. It is NOT designed for light/small cracks - there are other Quikcrete products for that. This is designed for larger/clean/deep cracks or applications. I too had a dried up tube once and it was replace no problem. It dries quickly - it has limited open time. After 2. 4 hours you have a V- water- resistant (I won't say proof but I personally think it is) seal. If you have a serious repair you can layer it with another application if needed. I use it here in CO and we have freeze- thaw winters/springs. This product keeps the water out of joints/cracks/seams and I have used it to seal around river- rock counters and any locations where mortar/grout changes plane (a right angle). For lack of a better term it is . 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TUTORIAL: How to Make a Crossover Cable. This tutorial will show you how to properly conduct a Crossover network cable. This cable can be used to directly connect two computers to each other without the use of a hub or switch. The ends on a crossover cable are different from each other, whereas a normal 'straight through' cable has identical ends. Their uses are shown in the following diagrams. Soon you will have a fully functional CAT5 Crossover cable courtesy of Fido at littlewhite dog. It should state clearly on the jacket of the cable, what it is rated at. One option that you have when selecting your cable is to use a pre- made normal 'straight through' cable, and simply whack off one of the ends, and replace with a new . For the purpose of this article, though, we aren't going to go that route. We are going to make the whole thing from scratch - using bulk CAT 5 cable. RJ- 4. 5 plugs are similar to those you'll see on the end of your telephone cable except they have eight versus four contacts on the end of the plug. Also, make sure the ends you select are rated for CAT 5 wiring. There are also different types of jacks which are used for different types of cabling (such as Solid Core wire). Make sure you buy the correct jacks for your cabling. My advice on what brand to get? Well, I really don't have a preference at this point, but make sure you buy a good one. If you spend about 4. Spend 1. 0 to 2. 0 bucks, and you might be able to make a few cables with it if you're lucky. You definitely get what you pay for when it comes to crimpers! If you do not have access to one of these tools, cautious use of a razor blade or knife should work just fine - but keep in mind if you go the razor blade / knife route, extra special care must be used as to not damage the wires inside the jacket. It is very important that all the wires are the same lengths, and without proper cutters, this can be a difficult task.- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- . Be very careful at this point, as to not nick or cut into the wires, which are inside. Doing so could alter the characteristics of your cable, or even worse render is useless. Check the wires, one more time for nicks or cuts. If there are any, just whack the whole end off, and start over. Spread the wires apart, but be sure to hold onto the base of the jacket with your other hand. You do not want the wires to become untwisted down inside the jacket. Category 5 cable must only have 1/2 of an inch of 'untwisted' wire at the end; otherwise it will be 'out of spec'. At this point, you obviously have ALOT more than 1/2 of an inch of un- twisted wire, but don't worry - well take care of that soon enough. Up to this point, things have been pretty easy. Things will get a little bit tricky here, but don't worry, we'll get through this together. We are at a point in this article where a decision needs to be made. You need to decide which end of the cable you are making at this point in time. If you are making your cable from scratch like I am doing while writing this article, you have 2 end jacks, which must be installed on your cable. If you are using a pre- made cable, with one of the ends whacked off, you only have one end to install - the crossed over end. Below are two diagrams, which show how you need to arrange the cables for each type of cable end. Decide at this point which end you are making and examine the associated picture below. Begin to untwist the twisted exposed wires on your cable. Use caution so that you do not untwist them down inside the jacket. Once you have all the wires untwisted begin to arrange them in the proper order based on the pictures above. This stage can be a pain in the ass, especially some of the middle wires. Once you get all the wired arranged in the proper order, make sure your wire cutters are within reach then grasp them right at the point where they enter the jacket. Make sure you keep them in the proper order! Grab your cutters now. Line them up along your prepared wires about 1/2 inch above the jacket. Be sure at this point that you are both 1/2 inch above the jacket, and that your cutters are aligned straight across the wires. You want to make a clean cut here - also make sure you don't let go of that jacket / wires! From this point forward things get a lot easier. Grab your jack, and begin to slide the wires into the jack. Once you get to the point where the jacket begins to enter the jack things might get a little tough, but just have some patience and hold onto those wires. It will fit in there just fine. Once it is in as far as it will go the wires should extend almost to the front of the jack, and about 3/8 of an inch of the jacket will be inside the jack. Like the pictures below. Grab those crimpers - because not all crimpers are exactly the same your pictures may not match exactly what you see below. Be sure to keep a good grip on that jack and the cable. Insert the jack into the crimper. It should only go in one way, so you don't have a whole lot to worry about inserting it. Begin to compress those crimpers. You will more than likely hear a clicking sound. If you try to let go to early, nothing will happen. They will not release. Keep going until they stop clicking / stop moving all together. At this point, you should be able to let go of the jack, and the crimpers. The crimpers should release now leaving you with a crimped jack. If the crimpers do not release, you probably are a wimp and didn't press hard enough. Go ask your mom to help you at this point. She can probably finish what you started. It's time to examine what we have done. If you look at the end of the jack (distal), you should see that the copper connectors should not be pressed down into the wires. Toward the back of the jack (where the jacket meets the jack) it should be crimped securely holding the jacket / cable in the jack. If something has gone wrong, don't worry, its not the end of the world. Grab those cutters, and just whack the whole jack off and start back at step 1 (a pain in the ass I know, but its better to have a cable that works, than to spend hours trouble shooting your PC trying to figure out why you can't see the other machine). If everything is cool, all you have to do now is make the other end of the cable (unless you are using a pre- fab cable and have whacked one of the ends off), so go back to step one, and make the other end now. This can cause permanent damage to the cables' interior - Do not overtighten cable ties - Do not use excessive force when pulling cable through floors, walls or ceilings - Do not use staples to secure category- 5 cable, use the proper hangers, which can be found at most hardware stores Now you have a fully functional CAT5 Crossover cable courtesy of Fido at littlewhite dog. How To Add/Remove Programs And Files To System Startup In Windows 8. Rebooting Windows is something that most of us really dread. There may be a variety of factors involved, and it may take only a minute or two, but most people don. This is where the Windows built in feature aptly labelled Startup items comes to the rescue. Startup items are basically applications, documents or folders that you wish to automatically start up or open when you boot or log in to Windows. You’ve finally made the leap to Windows 8 (or, more probably, Windows 8.1), and a pretty big leap it was. Everything looks different. 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